If you're buying diamond jewellery for the first time, you might be researching the 4Cs, or perhaps you've just seen fancy coloured diamonds and want to learn more. Our guide explains everything you need to know.
What is diamond colour?
For standard diamonds, colour measures how colourless a white diamond is. It runs on a certified scale from D to Z. Most diamonds develop a slight tint during formation, caused by traces of nitrogen, which is why the more colourless a diamond is, the rarer and more valuable it becomes.
- D to F: Colourless
- G to J: Near colourless
- K to M: Faint (a warm tone)
- N to R: Very light
- S to Z: Light
Colourless diamonds are graded face down against a white card under controlled lighting, which shows any tint most clearly. Once a diamond sits face up in a ring, it shows far less colour. For most buyers, near-colourless diamonds look white enough in the setting and are a good option if you want to strike a balance between a colourless appearance and value for money.
Fancy coloured diamonds are graded on a separate scale. Here, stronger and more saturated colour raises the value rather than lowering it.
Coloured diamonds appear when an element of the crystal absorbs light. Nitrogen content produces yellow, boron produces blue, and distortion causes pink and red diamonds. The rarer the cause, the rarer and more valuable the stone.
- Yellow: The most widely available fancy colour.
- Pink: Rare and highly sought after.
- Blue: Very rare, coloured by boron.
- Green, orange and red: Among the rarest, with red the scarcest of all.
What colour diamonds are the most popular?
Colourless and near-colourless diamonds are by far the most popular, and they dominate the diamond jewellery market. A clear white stone lets light pass through and return to the eye without interference, whereas any tint reduces that light return. The white light a diamond returns is its brilliance, and the coloured flashes are its fire. The more tint a diamond has, the less light it returns.
Another reason white diamonds are so popular is tradition. The image fixed in most people's minds is a bright, clear stone. Strongly coloured diamonds, such as vivid pinks and blues, are scarce and command much higher prices, whereas colourless and near-colourless diamonds can keep pace with demand.
How does diamond setting impact colour?
The metal and setting can change how your diamond's colour appears. White gold and platinum reflect any existing warmth back into the stone, so the colour shows more. Yellow and rose gold help to mask warmer tones, so a K to M stone can look bright if you want to prioritise carat and cut. The diamond's shape matters too: round brilliant, cushion and oval cuts disguise colour well, while step cuts such as emerald and Asscher show more colour in the body.
Diamond colour misconceptions
Some common myths about diamond colour can affect your budget and cost you money.
- It's always worth choosing the highest-rated colour in your budget: not necessarily. Depending on what you value most, a D grade isn't always worth the extra cost, because the difference between colourless and near-colourless is almost impossible to see face up with the naked eye.
- A lower colour grade doesn't mean a yellow diamond. A true yellow diamond is classed as a fancy diamond. A grade Z stone will only have a light tint.
- A higher colour grade doesn't sparkle more. Sparkle comes from the cut. A well-cut J diamond will sparkle more than a poorly cut D diamond.
Ready to choose your diamond?
Here at Diamond Quarter, our expert team will help you choose a colour grade that looks best in your chosen setting and makes the most of your budget. Shop our range of ready to ship jewellery or book an appointment at our Jewellery Quarter store to discuss bespoke designs.